The New Old World
March / April 2023
THE WINEMAKER
Gianfranco Kozlović is somewhat of a legend in Istria - widely regarded as one of a few that truly spearheaded the renaissance of the Istrian wine industry in the 1990's. With his wife Antonella, the Kozlovic's have had an instrumental impact on the evolution and recognition of Malvazija Istarska - Istria's flagship white - in particular, and continue to set the pace, when it comes to research and innovation in the vineyard and cellar.
They continue to receive international awards and acclaim for their interpretations of Istria's much loved varieties. Last year alone they scooped the Best in Show award at Vinistra's World of Malvazija 2022, as well as the Best Teran award. This success followed hot on the coat-tails of their Selekcija Malvazija winning Platinum at Decanter. Deserved recognition indeed for wines honouring Istria and its heritage.
THE WINERY
The family’s wine story began in 1904 in Valle in north-west Istria, bordering Slovenia, with just a few hectares of vineyards. Now in their fourth generation and with a much larger footprint, their primary focus remains on showcasing Istria’s beloved indigenous varieties – Malvazija, Muskat Momjanski, Muskat Rose and Teran.
The family mission is to make wines which are the expression of the earth they come from. They firmly believe that the wine is a creation of the soil, the vine and the winemaker, and see their vineyards as a treasure. Harvests are performed by hand and sustainable techniques are used in the vineyards, and their striking, modern winery was developed with the principle of allowing gravity to do the hard work during the winemaking process.
In a recent interview, Gianfranco shared some insights in the Kozlović winemaking philosophy...
“A few years ago, we gradually switched to a new approach, thus now we only use manure, copper and sulphur. All the grapes in all the vineyards must be better and better. Procedures in the vineyard, care for the grapes, which includes a complete ecological approach, but also very controlled irrigation due to global warming, are key to raising the quality of wine. No one can make a top quality wine from an average grape. Awareness of this fact is crucial for the further progress of the Croatian wine industry.”
In its fourth generation the Kozlović family's winemaking principles remain steadfast: to preserve native grape varieties by honouring the region and heritage, to advance their knowledge and to innovate - through research and technology - in the vineyard and in the cellar, and to guarantee the quality of wine with the family name.
THE WINES
This month's selection is comprised of a fresh & floral Malvazija, the bone dry Violetta rosé, a vibrant, spicy and crunchy take on Teran and the off-dry, well defined Muskat Momjanski.
KOZLOVIĆ MALVAZIJA
JOS'S TAKE
Rich, flavourful and deliciously un-oaked. A very versatile food friendly wine, with that classic malvazija touch of salinity that keeps enticing you back for another sip.
KOZLOVIĆ MALVAZIJA
A classic and elegant take on Istria's flagship white, aged for 7 months in stainless steel.
The 2021 vintage is a quintessential example of fresh Malvazija Istriana
MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA
100% Malvazija Istarska (or Malvasia Istriana). Istria's flagship white.
Very versatile - can be enjoyed sparkling, as a fresh white, oak aged, or macerated.
TASTING NOTES
Malvazija vintage 2021 is bright, pale lemon in colour. On the nose it is open, youthful, very floral, and fruity. The aromatic profile is enriched with orange peel, orange blossom, lemon, lime, and a touch of apricots. It is very dry on the palate, medium bodied with a refreshing acidity, while remaining truly Mediterranean in its essence. The finish brings a salty, tangy quality and long, pleasant aftertaste which cleans the palate and begs for another sip.
Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) 2022 - Silver Medal (90 pts)
"Light and fresh with some yellow fruits, acacia flowers, and pear. Soft, with some astringency, and pronounced minerality."
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 10 - 12°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
This food friendly wine is no brainer with great quality seafood, white fish and risotto.
It also pairs nicely with poultry and lightly spiced Asian dishes or even paella.
KOZLOVIĆ VIOLETTA ROSÉ
JOS'S TAKE
When it comes to rosé, I love them bone dry with great minerality and uplifting acidity.
Merlot may not be a go to grape for me, but this blend both surprised me and defied the odds. It was my pick of rosés last summer.
KOZLOVIC VIOLETTA
Violetta is a bone-dry rosé blend made from Merlot (80%) and Teran (20%).
Medium body and firm structure, but playful and fresh - a perfect companion to summer.
MERLOT & TERAN
International favourite Merlot is perfectly paired here with Istria's flagship red - Teran.
Teran's brightness and acidity combines perfectly with Merlot's softness and timeless elegance.
TASTING NOTES
Pale pink in colour, Violetta is youthful on the nose, showing freshly crushed berry fruit such as strawberry, raspberries, blackberry, and cherries. There is a touch of rose-hip and a hint of some very ripe, even dried black fruits. All in all, a rosé with true Mediterranean origin!
It is very dry on the palate, medium to full bodied, with moderate acidities. Nicely balanced with good length and fine saline notes.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Chill well, to 6 - 8°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
A great aperitif and a perfect summer wine by glass.
That said, we also like to think of Violetta as a great food companion. Serve it with the seafood, or fish carpaccio with olive oil. The bravest would add capers. A perfect match!
KOZLOVIĆ TERAN
JOS'S TAKE
I love good acidity in a red wine. This one definitely hits the mark. It's fresh, spicy, earthy and easy drinking. A staple in our cellar.
KOZLOVIĆ TERAN
A modern version of Istrian Teran, showing freshness, ripeness, great acidity and poise. Savoury, refined, earthy and surprisingly complex.
Ages for 7 months in large 30 hL wooden barrels.
Drink now or hold until 2025.
TERAN
100% Teran - Istria's flagship red.
Challenging to tame due to the grape's high acidity.
In the right hands this grape produces earthy and elegant, north Italian style wines, with freshness and good ageing potential.
TASTING NOTES
An eye-catching deep ruby purple in colour, Kozlović Teran has medium intensity on the nose, where red and black fruits - predominantly ripe red and black cherries and plums - are combined with enticing spicy notes. It is dry on the palate, medium bodied with a rather firm tannic grip. A fresh, crunchy, modern red wine with great acidity and good length. A pleasure to drink.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 16 ° C. Can be decanted, but not essential.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
The ideal partner for venison and game meats, grilled meats straight off the barbeque and a variety of hard or soft cheeses.
KOZLOVIĆ MUSKAT MOMJANSKI
JOS'S TAKE
This muskat calls out to me for a fresh baguette with rillette du mans or a fine English stilton. Crisp and flavourful, it's one one of my go to companions for my favourite savoury treats.
KOZLOVIĆ MUSKAT
Kozlović Momjan Muscat PDO is a straightforward and finely defined semi-sweet wine.
The classic aroma of Muscat grapes, combines beautifully with a refreshing crispness and a delightful sweetness, to make a dream team!
MUSKAT MOMJANSKI
100% Muskat Momjanski (or Moscata di Momiano).
A delicate semi-sweet white muscat, produced in the small region on Momjan, in north west Istria. The Protected Designation of Origin was awarded to the region by the EU in August 2021.
TASTING NOTES
The colour is a clear, pale lemon. It is quite pronounced on the nose, showing youthful aromas and the purity of the Momjan Muscat grape, with hints of spicy nutmeg, ripe yellow fruits, dried apricots and some gentle floral qualities. Beautifully sweet, with enough ripe acidity to strike a perfect balance. Medium to full bodied, rich and intense, with a long, refreshing aftertaste.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Serve well chilled, at 8 ° C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Perfect on its own at the end of the meal, or with both savoury and sweet treats.
Enjoy with fresh Ontario peach salad, or add a liberal splash over your favourite vanilla ice cream. Personally we enjoy it with game pate or pork rillette, and it also makes the perfect partner in crime to a platter of blue cheese and dried fruits.
A most versatile companion to be sure!