The New Old World
September / October 2023
DISCOVER MALVAZIJA ISTARSKA -THE KABOLA WAY
This month we invite you to discover 2 very unique takes on magnificent Malvazija Istarska.
If you have ever been intrigued to try an Amphora aged wine, or a wine aged under the sea, then you will not be disappointed ...
JOS'S TAKE
If I have ever met a person who knows what they are talking about when it comes to the wonderful world of wine, it is the extremely knowledgeable and equally charming Caroline Gilby, MW. Tanya and I had the pleasure of meeting Caroline last year over, not surprisingly, a glass of Malvazija Istarska and an aromatic and delicious plate of truffle pasta - when in Istria ...
Caroline is one of only 414 people worldwide with the esteemed Master of Wine qualification, and is a specialist in the wines of Central and Eastern Europe. Passionate about her trade, and, just like us, a lover of Istria, she is firm in the belief that this still somewhat undiscovered wine region holds great potential on the international stage.
"In my view, Malvazija Istarska has a strong claim to be considered as a great grape variety. In other words, a grape capable of high quality, age-worthy wines and able to reflect a place or terroir." A strong statement indeed from a most qualified mind.
THE GRAPE
Malvazija Istarska, also known as Malvasia Istriana, is the second most planted variety in Croatia, and is the flagship white wine of Istria, where it has been cultivated for centuries, thriving in the region's distinct micro-climate.
It is believed to be of Istrian origin, and should not be confused with other malvasias, native to it's old world neighbours, across the Adriatic in Italy and further south in Greece.
It is an incredibly versatile grape, producing wonderful fresh wines, fascinating macerated orange wines, as well as having the potential for barrel aging. Floral aromas prevail, with refreshing notes of fruit, mineral and a mild bitterness on the palate.
THE WINERY
Postcard perfect Kabola Winery is located in north-western Istria, close the Slovenian border, within sight of the Adriatic Sea, and overlooked by the Julien Alps. The Markežić family has been producing wines in this region for 130 years, with the oldest wine in their archive dating back to 1891.
Vineyards sit at an altitude of 275m, and in clay soil which is also rich in marl, giving the wines distinct characteristics, delaying the ripening of the grapes and adding acidity to the wines.
Kabola is regarded as a pioneer of organic wine making in the region. Their production has been certified organic since 2009, and they lead the charge when it comes to seeking out innovative and sustainable practices in the vineyard.
They combine this quest for innovation with a strong sense of tradition. Wine production in Georgian amphorae, is the crown of their work where prolonged fermentation and ageing on the lees demonstrates what is possible with Malvazija Istarska, when prepared in the most ancient of ways.
"Mulching grapes in an amphora, prolonged fermentation, resting young wine without removing the grape skins until spring, pressing, these are all primordial ways by which "grapes are turned into wine", not those by which "man produces wine"."
Their latest initiative is one of experimenting with the influence of under the sea aging for Istria's darling Malvazija Istarska. The results ... well you will have the opportunity to experience this for yourself!
THE WINES
This month's selection showcases two special bottles of Malvazija Istarska, from the internationally awarded Kabola winery, from Buje in Istria. One is a limited edition production - a fresh Malvazija that ages for 12 months in the Adriatic Sea. The second is the cream of Kabola's crop - an amphora macerated and fermented Malvazija, produced according to the most ancient winemaking traditions.
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KABOLA MALVAZIJA UNDER THE SEA
JOS'S TAKE
This is one of the wines that actually first inspired the idea for the wine club - a limited edition wine that offers something truly unique to our members. Is under the sea aging just another fad? Maybe. Time will tell. But tell me you are not just a little bit intrigued to try it?
vinification
For this limited edition wine, Kabola take the newly bottled vintage of their classic, fresh, stainless steel fermented Malvazija Istarska as a starting point. The wine is then aged in the bottle in the Adriatic Sea at a depth of 22 metres. It remains there for 12 months, in silence and semi-darkness, constantly oscillated by the sea currents at a temperature of between 7 and 12 degrees.
TASTING NOTES
The wine has a lovely greenish-yellow colour, it is crystal clear and has medium body. The nose opens with acacia flower, notes of fresh apple, lime peel and mint leaves. It has a refined freshness and pleasant minerality, is quite intense on the palate with a lovely finish.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 8-10°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Anything else that comes from the sea!
KABOLA AMFORA MALVAZIJA
JOS'S TAKE
The 2019 Vintage was just awarded 96 points by a team of experts, in the August edition of Decanter Magazine. This 2020 Vintage is another knockout, to which the words "intriguing", "inviting" and "so impressive" can equally be applied.
For me, this wine offers not just a truly unique and refined experience, but also a window into winemaking history. Technology and innovation undoubtedly continue to propel the quality of the wine forward, but wines like this can and should remind us not to ignore the mastery and artisanal traditions of those that came before us.
vinification
Arguably the pinnacle of the Kabola wine portfolio, this Malvazija Istarska undergoes prolonged maceration and fermentation, for a period of 6 - 7 months in traditional clay amphorae. Following removal and filtration, the wine is aged for 1 year in large, 4,000 litre oak barrels and a further 1 year in the bottle.
Kabola's amphorae are imported from Georgia, the cradle of winemaking, and where this winemaking technique was mastered 8,000 years ago.
TASTING NOTES
A wonderful straw-yellow colour with a golden sheen, the wine is crystal clear and full-bodied. The bouquet opens with notes of quince compote, followed by dry fern, star anise, vanilla and herbs. It is harmonious and flavourful on the palate, with notes of butter, ripe peach and bitter almond in the aftertaste, and a long finish.
Kabola Amfora Malvazija is dry, with a crisp freshness, mild tannins, excellent minerality and good acidity. A quite unique and elegant skin-contact (orange) wine.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 12 - 14°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Amazingly versatile, you can enjoy with everything from charcuterie and rillette appetizers, to pork and chicken dishes, pasta and gnocchi.