The New Old World
November / December 2023
DISCOVER ANTE SLADIĆ
This month we invite you to discover the wines of Ante Sladić, a young and uber talented wine maker from the foothills of the Dinaric Alps, in Northern Dalmatia.
All wines, are single variety examples of lesser known grapes. We invite you to challenge your tastebuds with a few likely never-before-experienced flavour profiles.
THE WINEMAKER
Ante Sladić stands proudly at the helm of his small family winery. Traditions of grape growing and winemaking run deep in the family and are in good hands, as is evidenced by the fact that Ante, and his brother Juraj (of nearby Testament Winery fame), are two of Croatia's most talented young winemakers.
Production is exclusively with indigenous grape varietes, and rare ones at that. Ante is passionate about the potential of these lesser known grapes, and recognises his fortune to live in a small pocket of the world where they thrive. He fundamentally believes that he has both an obligation and responsibility to show these varieties to the world.
Core to the his winemaking principles, is the mission to protect and enhance the natural environment while respecting the tradition and local cultural heritage. The latter is strikingly expressed through the contributions of close family friend and designer, Damir Bralić, the creative talent behind Ante's distinctive wine labels. The labels are not just attractive designs, but if you look closely, they speak to the story, and in many cases, the soul of the wines. The shark on the Plavina label, is a native species which also serves as a synonym for the plavina grape. The monk on the Lasina label, is local hero Father Lujo Marun, who is recognized as a pioneer for Croatian archeology. Maps and artifacts reflect the history and geography of the region, and speak to the traditions of the people that have produced wines here for centuries. Traditions that clearly stand the test of time, as we believe, do these fascinating wines.
THE WINERY
Ante Sladić Winery is located in the village of Plastovo in Northern Dalmatia, a 30 minute or so drive inland from the beautiful town of Šibenik. The vineyards are planted just outside the village as well as on the hills above the town of Skradin, bordering the Krka National Park. This area has a unique microclimate influenced by the Krka River and the Adriatic Sea. Sitting at 250 meters above sea level the climate is distinctly Mediterranean, characterized by cool nights and ample warm, sunny days.
Within a small geographical area, you find a variety of microclimates and soil types which allows Ante and his team to create a wide range of wine styles, styles you do not necessarily expect to find in Dalmatia.
The vineyards planted in rich and fertile soil on the northern slope of the hill above Skradin, bordering the Krka River, produce wines that display elegance and freshness - wines that are lighter in nature and perfect for every day drinking. Older vineyards, on skeletal soil, are located on the top of the hill in Plastovo, where they enjoy a typical Mediterranean climate with cool nights. The terroir, low yields, selective picking, painstaking vineyard work and meticulous attention to detail in the cellar make these wines extraordinary.
It is in these unique micro-climates that some lesser known grape varieties truly thrive - take for example Debit and Marastina on the white side, and Plavina and Lasina as reds. This terrior, along with an abundance of talent and imbued traditions, makes Ante very much stand out against the crowd.
All of Ante's wines are non certified organic - the practices are followed out of principal, without seeing the need to invest in the stamp that proves it. Due to the favourable climate and soil, work in the vineyard is by nature, extremely low intervention. No commercial yeasts are used along with minimal sulphites. Nature and the skill of the winemaker is on full show here.
THE WINES
This month we are excited to introduce you to an intriguing selection of lesser know indigenous varieties: discover a skin-contact take on the white grape Debit, the medium bodied and savoury red that is Plavina, and, last but not least, elegant Lasina - Dalmatia's Pinot Noir.
DEBIT OYA NOYA
JOS'S TAKE
In rural Dalmatia, debit produced in this style takes one back in time, way before "Orange" or "Amber" wines became the "in thing". In fact, it was held is such high esteem, that during Napoleon's brief rule over the region, taxes and levies imposed on the local population would be paid in kind with this popular wine (hence the name - debit!)
Very much a wine to be enjoyed with food, its body, complexity and pleasantly bitter finish make it both striking in flavour and open up a wealth of food pairing possibilities. One for the adventurous and open minded wine lover.
Interestingly, the name Oya noya, comes from a verse of a traditional song of ancient Dalmatia, and is believed by the locals to brings out something energetically primal in each of us. I encourage you to enjoy with this thought in mind!
OYA NOYA
An intriguing skin-contact (orange) wine.
Only the best Debit grapes from old vines are used. The grape juice macerates on its skins for 14 days. Post fermentation, it is aged in 50 years old oak barrels. The wine is unfiltered.
The wine is dedicated to Grandpa Sladić who, to this day, prefers to drink his zutina, the traditional name used by the locals, and which best translates to yellow wine.
DEBIT
100% Debit, a lesser known white variety that is indigenous to Dalmatia. It thrives on inland vineyards, which benefit from good sun exposure, as well as cooling mountain breezes.
A versatile grape: it produces fantastic fresh summer whites and is also well suited to skin-contact.
Historically, since Napoleonic times, this high quality wine which produces high yields, was used as a form of currency, to pay off debts - hence the name!
TASTING NOTES
"A grippy and textured skin-contact "orange" wine from the indigenous Croatian grape variety debit. The name refers to the high yielding nature of the grape which at one time allowed grape growers to use as currency and pay their debts. More gold than orange in colour, the wine displays floral, tropical and tea aromas and flavours. Dry and complex with great depth on a medium full-bodied frame, the finish is long and nutty. Highly recommended and a must try for lovers of skin macerated whites."
Janet Dorozynski, Dip WSET, PhD (93 points)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Serve lightly chilled at 12 - 14°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
White meats, fleshy-robust seafoods like lobster or sea bass, or rich and savoury dishes, such as Oxtail and aubergine risotto.
PLAVINA
JOS'S TAKE
One of my go-to reds over the course of this summer. Mid-weight and really quite tasty, with good acidity, fine grained tannins and good old-fashioned old world earthiness. I personally recommend decanting, and enjoying lightly chilled or straight from the wine fridge.
ANTE SLADIC PLAVINA
The vineyards are located on the northern slope of the hill above the town of Skradin, bordering the Krka River. The rich fertile soil, and proximity to the Krka River, contribute to a micro-climate that produces wines of notable freshness and elegance.
Fruit-forward, herbaceous and fresh, with a light to medium body, good minerality and earthy notes.
12 months aging in large Slavonian oak barrels nicely rounds out the resulting wine.
PLAVINA
Plavina is a red grape, most commonly found in Northern Dalmatia. When it meets its terroir match - rich soil with a high moisture content - it produces consistently high yields, and makes wines that are typically light to medium bodied, with great acidity.
Genetic analysis has established Plavina to be a cross between Tribidrag (the original Zinfandel) and Verdeca (from Puglia, Italy). It is still widely cultivated in Croatia along the Adriatic coastline, and has all but disappeared from Puglia.
TASTING NOTES
"This is a lovely, perfumed, very Mediterranean wine from the Dalmatian Coast, made from Plavina, an indigenous red variety related to Tribidrag (Zinfandel). It's replete with pot pourri and both fresh and sundried fruit aromas and flavours. The palate is surprisingly lively and almost light, very savoury, with a moderate 13% alcohol declared. Tannins are very fine-grained, and structure is based more on acids, making it a juicy, food-friendly options. Lots of savour and regional swagger here for the money, worth discovering." John Szabo, MS (91 points.)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
14 - 16°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Charcuterie, salumi, salads, light meat dishes.
LASINA
JOS'S TAKE
I certainly find that over the years, as my tastes change and my palate evolves, I definitely go in phases when it comes to style of wines that I enjoy. Occasionally you discover a new wine that is a perfect fit. This is one of those beautiful recent discoveries for me.
Refined and elegant. Quite delicious and unexpected. Not a wine that is easy to find as a single variety, and one I will definitely seek out going forward.
ANTE SLADIC LASINA
Grapes are grown in older vineyards on skeletal soil. The vineyards are situated on a hilltop location in Plastovo, at approximately 300m, in a typical Mediterranean climate with cool nights.
Aged in neutral Slavonian oak barrels for 14 months, this Lasina is an elegant, complex yet fruit forward wine with herbal and floral aromas and a savoury soul.
LASINA
A very rare and old variety that’s low yielding, demanding and difficult to grow, but yields intensely aromatic fruit of exceptional quality. Wines are typically medium bodied, well balanced, with a flavour profile of red fruits, violet, earthy notes and hints of spice.
Sometimes referred to as Dalmatian Pinot Noir, Lasina is indigenous to North and Central Dalmatia.
TASTING NOTES
"Ante Sladic is a champion of rare native varieties, and lasina is such a grape, rarely bottled on its own as it is here. It's relatively pale red in colour, resembling pinot noir, at least visually, while the nose is open and fragrant, maturing but still displaying considerable red berry fruit, fresh and savoury. The palate is medium-bodied (13% alcohol), with silky smooth tannins and balanced-fresh acids, lending a sophisticated, sleek and polished mouthfeel overall. I like the balance and the elegance on offer, far more refined than one might expect from the coastal Mediterranean (Adriatic) region. A variety well worth preserving I'd say based on this example alone, somewhere between sleek sangiovese and swarthy pinot noir. Drink or hold into the mid-'20s."
John Szabo, MS (91 points)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 16 - 18 ° C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Tuna, poultry, lighter red meat dishes and risottos.