The New Old World
January / February 2024
HONOURING MILJENKO "MIKE" GRGIĆ
On December 13 2023, the wine world lost a legend - Miljenko "Mike" Grgić.
In the 1970's, Mike turned the wine world on its head at the now infamous Judgment of Paris. His victory put Californian wine on the map, and propelled him to legend status.
The Grgich Hills Estate which he founded is known and loved worldwide, but much less is known about his family winery in Croatia, Grgić Vina.
Mike celebrated his 100th birthday in April last year.
This month's selection of wines honours his extraordinary life and contributions.
Thank you Mike, and may you rest in peace.
THE WINEMAKER
Mike Grgić grew up in the small village of Desne, in Southern Dalmatia, at the time, home to just 200. Passionate about oenology, he moved to Zagreb, where he began his studies at the university. With the onset of Communism, and with it the realization that he would not be able to fulfil his professional dreams in his homeland, he made the tough decision to flee Croatia in 1954, and set off for the New World, passing through Germany and Canada en route to his final destination in Napa Valley.
Stepping into the vineyard on his first day working with Lee Stuart, the first grapes he saw transported him immediately back to home - he could not understand what his much loved Plavac Mali was doing in California, so far from its Croatian homeland.
He soon discovered that it was not Plavac Mali, but a grape known as Zinfandel with, at that time, unknown European origins. At this moment a seed was sown. A seed that would one day bloom into one of the proudest achievements of his life – the role he played in tracing Zinfandel’s roots back to Croatia: not in fact to Plavac Mali, but to one of its genetic parents, Tribidrag (also known as Crljenak Kaštelanski).
Success was quick to follow in his footsteps. During his time with Robert Mondavi, his 1969 Cabernet quickly established him on the wine map, and contributed to his move to Chateau Montelena, where the creation of his 1973 Chardonnay would rock the wine world at the now infamous 1976 Judgment of Paris. In those days, no one would ever have believed that a wine made in New World Napa, from Chardonnay – the darling grape of Burgundy – could possibly begin to compete with the great wines of that region, let alone beat them all in a blind tasting of the world’s best. From this moment on, a legend was born.
Hot on the heels of this achievement, he opened his own winery in Napa – Grgich Hills – in partnership with Austin E. Hills of the Hills Brothers coffee family, and things quickly took off. Fast forward almost 50 years and Grgich Hills wines are world famous and in high demand, each and every one of them bearing the red and white Croatian Coat of Arms on its label – a proud testament to the family’s heritage.
THE WINERY
Grgić Vina, the family winery in Croatia was, in fact, never part of the plan. After arriving in America, Mike never thought he would return home, let alone fulfil his lifelong dream of establishing a winery there. It was international events, totally out of his control, that drew him back to Croatia.
The impact of Communism on the Balkan region is well known. The Croatian War of Independence (1991 – 1995) brought an end to the rule of Yugoslavia but it came at a high cost, with its devastating toll on the economy, infrastructure, loss of life and the large-scale displacement of refugees. Sadly, things that are all too familiar to us today.
Once the war ended, and Croatia declared independence, Mike felt compelled to return home, not only to see his family but to try to understand what he could do to help the country in its recovery. Quite remarkably, it was a meeting with Franjo Tudjman, then President of Croatia, that provided the spark. This meeting allowed Mike to pose his question directly to the head of state, who simply encouraged him to do in Croatia what he did best overseas. And with that, Grgić Vina was born.
The original concept was to create a winery to assist in educational studies in the field of oenology and allow aspiring winemakers to benefit from his experience. In reality this concept never came to fruition, largely because Croatians typically do not like to be told how to do things! But what did come to pass was the creation of a winery, born out of a love for wine and country, with, at its core, the Grgić family’s winemaking vision, passion and principles.
Grgić Vina was established in 1996 by Mike, his daughter Violet (President Of Grgich Hills Estate), and Ivo Jeramaz – Mike’s nephew – in Trstenik on the Pelješac peninsula, less than 50km from Mike’s birthplace.
The award winning winery produces just 2 wines. They are made very much in the Grgich Hills style, with notable commonalities, despite the different varietals.
THE WINES
Mike always had a passion for Plavac Mali, Dalmatia’s flagship red, and he wanted to also produce one white to strike a perfect balance. He chose Pošip which, in his qualified eyes, was a much under-rated varietal. Just like their Napa siblings, the Croatian wines are well balanced, food friendly wines with lively acidity and pronounced elegance.
GRGIĆ POŠIP
JOS'S TAKE
The old world wine snob in me could initially not comprehend how a Chardonnay from California could possible beat the best of Burgundy, in a blind tasting, no less, led by the French themselves. Things became clearer however, when I discovered the winemaker. A feat of that nature in the 1970's could, after all, only have been pulled off by an old world magician!!
Back on topic, however, Pošip has been an incredible discovery for me. I love Chablis, and the very best Pošip can be like Chablis on steroids. Although my personal preference is for those without wood influence, this wine defies the odds. The skillful yet limited use of neutral French oak results in a wonderful food wine - rich and complex, yet retaining freshness and the unmistakeable flavour profile of Pošip - one of Croatia's indigenous gems.
GRGIĆ POŠIP
Grgić Pošip is full bodied white, produced in the Grgich Hills Style of white wines.
30% percent of the wine is aged in French oak, 70% in stainless steel tanks.
In Violet Grgić's words, this is "a wine with crispness and floral aromatics, with a richness à la Chardonnay."
POŠIP
100% Pošip, Dalmatia's flagship white.
Indigenous to the island of Korčula it is a very adaptable and terroir driven grape that produces full bodied yet fresh whites.
Wines are medium to full bodied, rich and yet fresh, with herbal, mineral and saline notes - a perfect companion to seafood.
TASTING NOTES
Fresh and fragrant, this wine offers a trip to the Mediterranean in a glass with citrus, almonds, ripe melon and savoury herbs. Notes of apples, vanilla spice and lemon rind on the nose and palate. Dry in style, with penetrating fruit flavours, with lavish minerality and a long, crisp finish.
"Such a lovely nose leads off here on this Korcula Island posip from Grgic winery, redolent of white and yellow flowers, sun-warmed orchard fruit, peach, apricot, quince and yellow plum, sweet green herbs, lavender, honey, and much more - complexity is superb. The palate shows exceptional depth and concentration, structure and balance, with no shortages in evidence. Length, too, is impressive. This is one monumental Croatian white wine, showing what this exceptional variety can do in the hands of a skilled winemaker and from its terroir of predilection. Brilliant stuff; drink or hold into the late-twenties." John Szabo, MS (93 pts) - 2020 vintage.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Chill well, to 10 - 12°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Fresh seafood and shellfish, all the way!
GRGIĆ PLAVAC MALI
JOS'S TAKE
Big red wine lovers rejoice. This is one bold and complex wine. Definitely not for everyday consumption, save this one up for a long cold winter's evening with your preferred hearty fare. Decant, be patient, sit back - ideally fireside, sip and enjoy.
GRGIĆ PLAVAC MALI
Grapes are grown on best vineyards in the well-known locations of Dingač and Postup on the Pelješac peninsula.
The wine ages for 15 month in French oak.
Violet describes it as an immensely food friendly wine with a lot of richness and flavour - a wine that "explodes in the mouth"!
PLAVAC MALI
100% Plavac Mali.
An ancient variety, it is the most widely planted red grape in Croatia. It thrives in mainland Dalmatia, the Pelješac peninsula, & the islands of Brač & Hvar.
Plavac Mali wines are full bodied, hearty and opulent, with ripe notes of fig, plum and spice, pairing well with game and red meat dishes.
TASTING NOTES
Deep ruby color tinged with garnet. On the palate, the wine is a contradiction of rusticity and elegance: bold, somewhat course tannins give a rugged frame to a mouth feel that seems smooth, rich and lush all at once. Super ripe black fruits, dried fig, spice, anise and mocha notes coat the palate and linger on the finish.
"This is a wine of immense ripeness and concentration from the Peljesac Peninsula, weighing in at 16% alcohol declared, and smelling like a bowl-full of prunes, raisins and chocolate syrup. Indeed, it's aromatically reminiscent of sun-dried pedro ximenez sherries from southern Spain. The palate is not as soft and supple as one might expect, however, showing considerable tannic grip and acid freshness - the energy and intensity of this wine is really remarkable. Length, too, is exceptional, carried along on those alcohol vapors, but not only; there's genuine concentration and depth on offer. The pleasantly bitter finish further pulls the wine back into balance - everything is on a massive scale but with equal measures, including complexity. This is precisely the sort of wine you want on a cold winter's night, with a rich stew or piece of hard cheese, or just contemplation by the fire. Best 2023-2035." John Szabo, MS (94 pts) - 2018 vintage.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
16 - 18 ° C. Decant half an hour + before consumption.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
An ideal partner for rich and hearty game and red meet dishes or strong cheeses.