The New Old World
March / April 2025
THE WINEMAKERS
The oldest wine cellars in Croatia came into existence in 1232, when the Cistercian Monks arrived in Kutjevo. The very same order of monks had started the wine culture in Burgundy - famously recognizing and establishing numerous Grand Cru locations in one of France's wine heartlands - and in the Mosel Valley, before hand-selecting Kutjevo as an ideal location for the planting of vines. Soon after, the abbey and cellars were established, wine-making traditions and techniques were institutionalized, and the rest is history ...
Today, Kutjevo Winery is one of the largest in Croatia, boasting vineyards in the premium positions around Kutjevo's Golden Valley: positions that first attracted those wine-loving monks all those centuries ago.
Steeped in history, Kutjevo recognizes the importance of evolution, and has recently brought in a new generation of winemakers who are both embracing tradition whilst also looking to innovate and create a new and exciting chapter. Their ongoing success is demonstrated by a consistent stream of international awards (Decanter World Wine Awards and Mundus Vini) across many products and price categories.
THE WINERY
Jancis Robinson, in her co-authored tome Wine Grapes calls out Slavonia, and more precisely Kutjevo, as one of the best Graševina producing regions globally. So what is it exactly that makes this region, and more specifically, the graševina from this region, so very special?
Located on the famous 45th parallel (think Bordeaux, Piedmont) in the vast expanse of the low-lying Pannonian Basin, the Golden Valley of Kutjevo could be likened to a needle in a haystack. Hills in this area are a rarity, let alone mountains, and Kutjevo is blessed with a ring of them. Rising 300 - 400 metres above sea level, their southern facing, sun drenched, mineral rich slopes form a unique micro-climate, and one that benefits from daily breezes to keep disease at bay.
In the midst of the generally cool, dry continental climate of the broader region, many argue that it is here, and only here, that you will find the optimal conditions for growing graševina. A deeply versatile grape, Kutjevo has a vast array of Graševina wines in their portfolio, from the sparkling cremant, to fresh, off dry, all the way across the spectrum to some spectacular ice wines. Ivan Marinclin, chief white wine oenologist at the winery, proudly claims that the grape is so versatile that you can easily pair a different wine with every course!
Although Graševina is undoubtedly the darling of Slovenia, their portfolio extends beyond this one variety. Red grapes also fare well in this continental climate, and they have a broad selection of both international and regional European varieties, including Zweigelt and Alicante Bouschet, which they work with, largely in blends.
THE WINES
This month's selection is comprised of 4 takes on graševina - one sparkling, two fresh and one blend, an eminently sippable rosé, and a red blend to showcase how international grapes fare in this region.
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MAXIMO BRUT
JOS'S TAKE
Fresh, vibrant and rich with great minerality. A fine example of a cremant that doubles down on the graševina variety, with a dosage of late harvest added after the secondary fermentation for good measure. Why on earth not!
Definitely one to keep on hand for when your day calls for a little sparkle without the big splurge.
MAXIMO BRUT
Created using the methode champenoise.
The second fermentation in the bottle lasts 9 months at 13 - 15°C. The bottles are placed at an angle on the cork, and the champagne yeasts settle in the neck of the bottle, which is turned every day in order to evenly distribute the yeasts and created beads throughout the bottle. The top of the bottle is subsequently frozen, opened, and disgorgement takes place with the addition of liqueur from the ice harvest of Graševina. It is corked with a permanent cork and then aged for another three months in bottle.
GRAŠEVINA
Graševina, also known as welschriesling, borba, laški riesling and riesling italico, is the most widely planted white grape in Croatia, and it can be found across many parts of central Europe.
The best quality grapes are arguably grown in the Slavonia region of inland Croatia.
A very versatile grape, it can be the feature grape in a Cremant - traditional method sparkling wine (as it is here), but also produces fresh and oak aged wines, as well as late harvest and ice-wines.
TASTING NOTES
Golden-yellow in colour, fresh and rich, mineral taste, pleasant acids and fine small fresh beads. This classic, elegant sparkling wine is made from Graševina grapes, with late-harvest Graševina used for the dosage.
Gold Medal Winner (2023) - Classic and Elegant - glassofbubbly.com
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 10 - 12°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Seafood and creamy cheeses and light deserts.
PREMIUM GRAŠEVINA
JOS'S TAKE
Fresh, fruity, saline and full of character.
In a play on its name, amongst its many fans (which include me), it has earned the nickname PGK (Pinot Grigio Killer) ... taste it and you will understand what I mean!
PREMIUM GRAŠEVINA
Grapes selected from premium plots at up to 400m elevation. Yields controlled to optimize quality.
Classic controlled fermentation.
Stainless steel vinification.
GRAŠEVINA
Graševina wines are food-friendly, fruity, with mineral character and good acidity.
The very first wine in our portfolio, it continues to be enormously popular and great value.
TASTING NOTES
"Nice crushed stone minerality character, with notes of ripe stone fruit, tangerine and white pepper. Oily texture but lively character."
DWWA 2024 (Silver - 94 pts)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Chill well, to 10 - 12°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
A great aperitif and a perfect summer wine by glass.
Pair with top quality seafood, octopus salad and poultry dishes.
VINKOMIR GRAŠEVINA
JOS'S TAKE
A great example of what this grape variety can offer when sourced from a premium location and managed to optimal yields. As Max Verstappen would say, simply lovely.
VINKOMIR GRAŠEVINA
Vinkomir is a single vineyard, handpicked and low intervention Graševina wine.
The vineyards are surrounded by pristine nature dominated by Slavonian oak forests and south-facing slopes at elevations ranging from 200 to 450 m.
GRAŠEVINA
As grapes go, Graševina is "productive, late budding and ripening but able to retain acidity if yields are controlled. Suited to dry climates and warmer soils, but relatively cold hardy." *
* Wine Grapes - Jancis Robinson
TASTING NOTES
It is of a pale straw color, with hints of green. Aromas of ripe green apples, citrus, delicate floral notes, and white flowers add complexity to the nose.
On the palate, it is crisp and fresh, with lively and vibrant acidity providing structure and balance, along with flavors of juicy pears, lemon zest, and a touch of honeyed sweetness. The wine is medium-bodied, with a silky texture, offering a delightful almost sweet mouthfeel, yet quickly evolving to a salty, crisp, and clean long finish.
Mundus Vini Summer Tasting 2024 - Gold Medal
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
10 - 12 ° C
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Seafood dishes, salads, or simply enjoying on its own as a refreshing apéritif.
MAXIMO ORO
JOS'S TAKE
It is really quite rare to find graševina in a blend. In fact, when Maximo Oro was first launched less than 10 years ago, it was met with a heavy dose of scepticism from the locals. This was however soon put to bed and the wine has been embraced both regionally and internationally.
The marriage here of the the "best varietal in the world with the best varietal from Croatia" (in the words of Ivan Marinclin - chief winemaker), has produced something quite unique.
Bold steps can produce great rewards. It works very well.
MAXIMO ORO
Maximo Oro - the "greatest gold".
Grapes are sourced from old the Vetovo appellation, the most prized location in the Golden Valley.
Chardonnay is aged in large Slavonian oak barrels, lending scents and aromas from the local terroir.
GRAŠEVINA & CHARDONNAY
This wine combines the freshness of graševina with the complexity and strong aging potential of international superstar - chardonnay - to produce a unique wine.
In the words of the winemaker, "a wine with soul", a wine made with gastronomy in mind.
TASTING NOTES
Aromas of ripe pear and peaches with touches of baked apples. Nice structure on the palate.
A harmonious and pleasant body and refreshing acids.
International Wine Challenge 2023 - Silver Medal
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
10 - 12 ° C
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Seafood and creamy pasta dishes.
PREMIUM ROSÉ
JOS'S TAKE
This rosé calls out for the start of summer. My recommendation: save this one for the first patio day of the year. Served well chilled, it is a true crowd pleaser - fresh, fruity, not too dry, not too sweet. There is a reasonable probability, that like for me, it will keep you coming back for more!
KUTJEVO PREMIUM ROSÉ
An earlier harvest of the Zweigelt variety yields good acidity and freshness, as well as lower alcohol, and a later harvest of the Pinot Noir variety lends structure and richer aromas.
Classic stainless steel vinification.
ZWEIGELT & PINOT NOIR
This rosé is the marriage of local Zweigelt (of central European origins) and international Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir is well suited to the cool, continental climate of the region, and combines beautifully here with Zweigelt, which adds fruitiness and freshness.
TASTING NOTES
This rosé has a delicate and seductive color, the scent of rose and pomegranate and the light fruity aroma of strawberry of raspberry, with refreshing, well-composed acidity.
A Provençal style rosé with a rich and persistent taste that reveals the character of the Pinot Noir and Zweigelt varieties.
CONCOURS MONDIAL DE BRUXELLES (Rosé Wines) - Silver Medal
DWWA 2024 - Bronze Medal
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Serve well chilled, at 8 - 10 ° C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Patio Perfect rosé for sunny afternoon sipping.
Pairs well with fresh salads, fish, seafood pasta or risotto.
MAXIMO NERO
JOS'S TAKE
It's location on the 45th parallel certainly gives credence to Kutjevo's oenologists in their quest to follow in the footsteps of Bordeaux's great winemakers with their classic blends.
Definitely interesting. Try a side by side tasting with an equivalent French blend for an enjoyable and thought provoking experience.
MAXIMO NERO
The vineyards are located in two of the best sites in the region - Hrnjevac and Vinkomir - in Kutjevo's Golden valley.
Ageing in barrique barrels lends the wine roundness and elegance, along with spicy notes.
INTERNATIONAL BLEND
Maximo Nero is a blend of three much loved international varieties - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
This Croatian take on Bordeaux's classic blend, heralds from the same latitude - the famous 45th parallel.
TASTING NOTES
The nose offers aromas of fresh cherry and blackberry fruit with gentle spicy notes. It is silky on the palate with well-rounded tannins and an elegant mouthfeel.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Serve at 16 - 18 ° C. Decanting is optional.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Roasted or braised red meat, venison and aged cheeses.