The New Old World
July / August 2025
THE GRAPES
Pošip - "Korčula's indigenous gem"
Pošip is the most widely planted white varietal in Dalmatia. Indigenous to the stunning island of Korčula, birthplace of Marco Polo, it is a very adaptable and terroir driven grape that produces full bodied yet fresh whites. It is believed to originate from Korčula in Dalmatia, with confirmed parentage to three other locally grown indigenous varietals.
It is a versatile grape, which can be produced in a variety of styles, from fresh to macerated, and tends to be high in alcohol with fresh acidity. Wines are medium to full bodied, rich and yet fresh, with herbal, mineral and saline notes - a perfect companion to seafood.
Debit - "a currency accepted by Napoleon"
Debit is a white grape indigenous to the Dalmatian region of Croatia. Historically, since Napoleonic times, this high quality wine which produces high yields, was used as a form of currency, to pay off debts - hence the name! It thrives on inland vineyards, which benefit from good sun exposure, as well as cooling mountain breezes.
It is believed to be indigenous to Croatia, but is also grown today in Northern Macedonia. When well produced, wines attain depth and intensity, with great minerality, and strong citrus notes. It is also well suited to maceration, producing wonderfully flavourful orange wines with notes of dried fruits, herbs and nuts.
Malvazija Istarska - "the versatile crowd pleaser"
Malvazija Istarska is a classic old world indigenous variety and the flagship white wine of Istria, where it has been cultivated for centuries, thriving in the region's distinct micro-climate. It is of Istrian origin, not to be confused with other malvasias, native to it's old world neighbours in Italy and Greece.
It is incredibly versatile, producing wonderful fresh wines, fascinating macerated orange wines, as well as having the potential for barrel aging. Floral aromas prevail, with refreshing notes of fruit, mineral and a mild bitterness on the palate.
Muškat Momjanski - "Istria's dolce vita"
Muškat momjanski is a wine of protected origin that is produced in the small region of Momjan in North West Istria. Wines are made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains which thrives in the areas microclimate and soil.
The origins are not confirmed, but it is believed that the grape was brought to Istria from Italy in the 1200s. Since its arrival it has adapted and taken on its own unique charachter.
Wines are aromatic and floral. Although you will find dry and off dry wines, the more intense dessert wines tend to steal the show.
THE WINES
This month's selection takes you on a journey down the Adriatic coast and a discovery of 4 of Croatia's indigenous white grapes. Starting in the south (Dalmatia) and moving north (to Istria), you have a zesty pošip blend, a bone dry debit, a savoury skin contact and a gem of a dessert wine to wrap everything up.
STINA CUVÉE WHITE
the winery & winemaker
Wine making is an ancient tradition on the island of Brač, with deep roots and a long history dating back to when the Greeks introduced the first vines there around the 5th century BC. Dating back to 1903, the winery that is today home to Stina, is believed to be the closest in the world to the actual sea, enabling the workers in the old days to simply roll the barrels directly from land to ship.
Stina's chief oenologist, Petar Kusić has truly mastered the art of crafting beautiful wines from Brac's vineyards of stone.
VINEYARDS & vinification
Stina's vineyards on the island are in the most extreme locations. It is difficult to understand how the vines were first planted, let alone lovingly maintained and harvested. In places the gradient reaches 70% with vines planted at up to 500m above sea level.
Vines are planted on crushed stone in vineyards at altitude with strong exposure to the wind and the sun. Yields are very low, and quality extremely high. The resulting wines have a strong structure, good acidity and extreme minerality. These are wines that rapidly transport you to the Adriatic coast.
TASTING NOTES
"A stand-out value from the sun-soaked Dalmatian Island of Brač, this gently aromatic Croatian white blend is anchored by pošip, and complemented by vugava and chardonnay. This sea-kissed sip is salty, bright and impeccably clean. Notes of ripe pear and zesty lime hover above its mineral backbone on the palate that offers impressive concentration and memorable length. Tasted May 2025."
Sara d'Amato - Wine Align - 90 pts
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 8-10°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Oysters all the way.
ANTE SLADIĆ DEBIT
the WINERY & winemaker
Ante Sladić Winery is located in the village of Plastovo in Northern Dalmatia, a 30 minute or so drive inland from the beautiful town of Šibenik. Sitting at 250 meters above sea level the climate is distinctly Mediterranean, characterized by cool nights and ample warm, sunny days.
Ante Sladić stands proudly at the helm of his small family winery. Production is exclusively with indigenous grape varietes, and rare ones at that. Ante is passionate about the potential of these lesser known grapes, and recognises his fortune to live in a small pocket of the world where they thrive. Due to the favourable climate and soil, work in the vineyard is by nature, extremely low intervention. No commercial yeasts are used along with minimal sulphites. Nature and the skill of the winemaker is on full show here.
vineyards & vinification
The vineyards planted in rich and fertile soil on the northern slope of the hill above Skradin, bordering the Krka River, produce wines that display elegance and freshness - wines that are lighter in nature and perfect for every day drinking. Older vineyards, on skeletal soil, are located on the top of the hill in Plastovo, where they enjoy a typical Mediterranean climate with cool nights. The terroir, low yields, selective picking, painstaking vineyard work and meticulous attention to detail in the cellar make these wines extraordinary.
It is in these unique micro-climates that some lesser known grape varieties truly thrive - take for example Debit and Marastina on the white side, and Plavina and Lasina as reds. This terrior, along with an abundance of talent and imbued traditions, makes Ante very much stand out against the crowd.
TASTING NOTES
Debit may be little known in the broader wine world, but it is a staple in the area around Skradin. A testament to its rich past and quality is the fact that it was once used as a currency, hence the name Debit. It reflects the soil characteristics of Plastovo exceptionally well with its minerality. The wine is fresh and bright, bone dry and bursts with aromas of citrus and chamomile rounded with the salinity and flavors of the sea and limestone.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 8-10°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Seafood and fresh summer salads.
CLAI BARACIJA MALVAZIJA
the WINERY & winemaker
Clai's cellar of wines have one key factor in common - the whites, just like the reds, are all skin-contact wines, otherwise known as orange or amber wines. These wines are food wines, well balanced, rich and complex.
Historically, in Istria, Slovenia and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, skin-contact wine making was the norm and Giorgio Clai was resolute in his mission of sustaining and evolving this tradition, quickly becoming recognized as a pioneer in the field.
Following Giorgio's recent retirement, Clai Winery has taken a new step into the future with a talented young winemaker from South Africa, Tim Whitfield, taking over at the helm. The face may be new, but the vision remains the same.
vineyards & vinification
Around 200m above sea level, the vineyards enjoy plenty of sunshine as well as cool and salty sea breezes coming from Adriatic, some 10 km to the west. The vineyards are situated on grey/white limestone flysch soil. Its low fertility and good drainage provide the perfect amount of stress for the old vines, but also an inviting habitat for the younger Baracija vineyards to flourish.
All wines are certified organic, and winemaking techniques follow natural and biodynamic principles. Winemaking is all done by hand with a meticulous degree of care. Grapes are hand-picked, de-stemmed and gravity-fed into open-topped oak barrels for fermentation, malolactic conversion and maceration.
TASTING NOTES
Baracija is the name of the site, from which the first single vineyard version of this malvazija was made in 2017. Vines are relatively young, and grapes are given 5-10 days skin contact, leading to a pronounced gold colour. The aromas and flavours are full of inviting herbal, rosemary, incense-inflected notes, notably clean, with lovely, firm texture and terrific depth and length. Potent and powerful, 14% alcohol. A clean and stylish version of amber wine.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served lightly chilled at 12-14° C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
The perfect partner for spicier fare, including paella, stir fry and Asian curries.
FRANKOVIĆ LUNA BIANCA MUŠKAT
the WINERY & winemaker
Franković winery is a small family owned estate nestled in the heart of Buje, Istria. It boasts a rich legacy of winemaking that has been passed down through the generations.
Josip Franković sought out a premium plot of land - beautiful Santa Lucia, close to Buje - with a winning combination of limestone and clay soils. The vineyards that now thrive here, represent the beginning of a new wine story with old roots, now being nurtured and led into the future by the youngest generation of the family.
vineyards & vinification
Muškat momjanski is a wine of protected origin that is produced in the vicinity of Momjan in Istria. The wines are made from a Muscat variety
It is a semi dry white wine from 30 year old vineyards, positioned at an altitude of 200-240m. Vineyards are oriented to the south, southwest.
The soil compositionis a mix of flysch, limestone and clay
Grapes are harvested by hand, with manual grape selection. The wine is aged for 8 months in stainless steel tanks.
TASTING NOTES
Luna Blanca, with its pale yellow colour, is characterized with the aroma of grapes, lime and ripe and juicy yellow fruit. It has an intense flavour, complemented with various sweet spices. A sweet wine, with 36 g/L of residual sugar, balanced with good acidity. Harmonious and complex, with a long, sweet aftertaste.
It combines perfectly with desserts, especially with the ones based on fresh yellow fruit, but can also be served as a substitute for dessert.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 8° C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Fresh yellow fruit desserts, or as a substitute for desert.